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Walk Around Largo Santa Susanna by
Sergio Caggia - © Nerone The Insider's Guide to Rome 
If you are American, one of the most welcoming publications you will find in the city is
"As Romans Do". Written by the American Church of Santa Susanna on Piazza San Bernardo (Via Venti Settembre 15), it contains articles on the American community living in
Rome, good suggestions for visitors and useful information and tips. The style of the publication is simple and
charming, and it can be purchased from the church of Santa Susanna with a small donation of your
choice.
This will also give you the chance to visit the area.
Although it may seem a busy crossroads, it is, traffic aside, still one of the most beautiful corners in
Rome. Once you're in Piazza San Bernardo (coming from Via Torino, Via XX Settembre, Via Barberini or Via Vittorio E. Orlando)
you'll find yourself surrounded by the three contrasting churches: San Bernardo alle Terme, Santa Susanna and Santa Maria della Vittoria. You will also see the monumental fountain (or mostra) of the "Acqua Felice".
The view is spectacular at night, when everything is lit up!
Let's discover the churches and the treasures to be seen together. Don't worry... this
won't be just another art/history tour! There are many surprises in store for
you, so read on...
Let's start with the Church of San Bernardo alle Terme, so- called as it was built in 1598 in one of the four towers that once stood on the southwest corner of
Diocletian's baths (or Terme). The façade, which has recently been restored, shines in its recuperated grace and beauty, warming up the atmosphere of the
square. This round church is covered by a dome 22 metres in diameter similar to that of the Pantheon. From inside, you will aslo see that it has an opening in the centre of the dome, like the Pantheon, although the opening is covered by a window. You will find a painting by Andrea Sacchi: San Giovanni de la Barriere and the baroque Chapel of Saint Francis
(by the presbytery).
Walking out again, you'll find yourself in front of the church of Santa Susanna. Susanna was martyred under the Emperor Diocletian (280-290
BC) as she refused to worship the pagan gods and rejected marriage with the son of Diocletian
himself.
There is evidence of an early Christian Basilica on this very site dating back to the year 595. It was almost certainly built on the house of
Gabinus, Susanna's father. Remains of a Roman house were discovered during restoration work on the floor in 1830. The crypt was subsequently extended over the entire area of the church for use as a burial place for the nuns of the Cistercian
Monastery.
The present look of the church dates back to the beginning of the 17th century, when the adjoining Cistercian
Nun's Monastery was built together with a new façade by Carlo Maderno and the interior decoration was redone according to the style of the time
(nowdays called Mannerism, the bridge between Renaissance and Baroque art). Walking inside,
one's attention is drawn to the beautiful and colourful frescoes painted by Baldassarre Croce da Bologna. These frescoes are made to look like tapestries and they depict stories from the life of Saint Susanna. On the beautiful wooden
ceiling, said to have been designed by Maderno himself, there is a statue of the Virgin Mary and, on either side, the coat of arms of Cardinal Rusticucci who financed the
project. Notice the tromp l'oeils painted by Matteo Zoccolino da Cesena (e.g. the spiral
columns) and the stucco decorations by Valsoldo, such as the statues of the prophets
Jeremiah, Isaiah, Ezechiel and Daniel.
More detailed information on the church can be found inside.
Now let's walk to the nearby church of Santa Maria della Vittoria (Saint Mary of the
Victory). This church was designed by Carlo Maderno in 1608 for Cardinal Scipione Borghese.
The original dedication was to St Paul but this was changed in 1622 to St Mary of the Victory after an image of the Virgin was found near the Castle of Pilsen and taken to Italy by a Carmelite
monk. The Virgin's miraculous intervention was said to have brought about the victory of Ferdinand II of Hapsburg against the Protestants in the battle of the White Mountain near Prague (1620). The image was carried to the church with great
pomp.
The façade was inspired by that of the church of Santa Susanna. The interior is one of the most sumptuous examples of the Baroque style. Walk in and you
won't believe your eyes! Besides the famous Ecstasy of Saint Teresa of Avila by Bernini (1646) and the Cornaro
Chapel, there are many works of art worth seeing, for example the last works in Rome by Domenichino to be found in the second chapel on the right (Mary with the child and Saint
Francis; Ecstasy of Saint Francis and Saint Francis Receiving the Stigmata). Another remarkable work is the organ made by Mattia de Rossi in 1680
(notice the armour!) and the Impressionist painting in the vault of the apse depicting the Madonna of the Victory entering Prague with the Catholic troops painted by Luigi Serra in 1885.
Had enough of art? Then let's walk outside and get some fresh air...
Head for Via Torino (by the church of San Bernardo). While crossing the square, notice the Acqua Felice
Fountain. This was designed by Domenico Fontana in 1587 to celebrate Pope Sixtus V's restoration of the aqueduct Aqua Alexandrina
(built by Alessandro Severo in 216 AD). This water now bears the Pope's Christian
name, Felice Peretti. The four lions are copies of the original Egyptian statues that were moved to the Vatican
Museums.
The fountain is dominated by the colossal statue of Moses sculpted by Prospero Bresciano (no doubt inspired by
Michelangelo's Moses!) but the proportions are all wrong and Moses looks rather
clumsy. Such was the sculptor's disappointment when he saw the finished work that he
died! The statue has inspired many stories and poems, including one by the famous poet Pasquino
(whose statue stands nearby in piazza Navona).
Here's the text for those among you who understand
Italian:
"Guarda con occhio torvo
l'acqua che sgorga ai piè,
pensando inorridito
al danno che a lui fè
uno scultor stordito"
Now it's time for some shopping and relaxation...
…Walk along Via Torino for a few metres and, on your left, at number 92, you'll find the wonderful garden of Mr. Domenico Persiani. Hanging on the outside wall of Saint Francis' chapel
(which you have just visited), are hundreds of pieces of terracotta. Terracotta fills up the garden
too! All kinds of statues, animals, fountains and decorations can be found... although you might feel like an elephant in a china shop! The atmosphere in the garden is
magical. It is one of the best shops for finding an original Christmas gift or a special souvenir of
Rome.
Only a few metres further down is the Galleria Esedra, where one of the greatest cake-shops in Rome is to be
found! All kinds of Sicilian specialities are to be found in the Pasticceria
Dagnino. The interior is not as warm as Parisian or Viennese coffee shops, but the quality of the cakes is
superb. Take note of the wooden figures dressed in traditional Sicilian costumes and the paintings on mirrors in one of the
halls!
Another good idea could be to visit the nearby Feltrinelli International Bookshop and then browse through your new books while enjoying a nice cup of tea at the Pasticceria! One more
suggestion: have a look at the curious shop "Horvàth" to be found on Via Vittorio E. Orlando 91. You will find reproduction
guns, armour and weapons as well as fascinating jewellery and bric-a-brac.
This is how I spent a late November afternoon, and I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed
myself. I hope you'll find it fun too.
Perhaps you could round it off with a good dinner at a typical Roman Trattoria and a delightful Christmas concert in one of the
churches... and a very Marry Christmas to you all! |
