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 The Insider's Guide to Rome
 HOW TO SURVIVE AND ENJOY THE ETERNAL CITY

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The Temple of Esculapius on the pond in Villa Borghese (in the Giardino del Lago), July 2nd 2000 - The pond



 The town of Manziana, 9 July 1998 - Manziana is at about 1 hour drive from Rome. Is located just north of the big volcanic lake Bracciano which is on of the several lakes in the Roman countryside and one of the most popular for Summer swimming! The waters of this lake are very clean and brought to Rome by ancient and modern aqueducts (the ancient built by Trajan in AD 109). From the main square of Manziana one can enjoy a beautiful view over the lake, the near town of Bracciano and its castle, and part of Trajan's aqueduct. This small town is very quiet and pleasant. In the pictures you can see the church's side and belfry (including a view of the main corso); houses on the corso and a typical small work-truk called Ape; a drinking fountain made of local stone in the hot Summer's afternoon. Manziana is on the way to Oriolo Romano, Canale Monterano, and many other nice country excursions. Contact us on Rome Made to Measure for countryside walks and day-trips.



 The village of Castel Giuliano, 9 July 1998 - Only at about 6 Kms from Bracciano is the village of Castel Giuliano. This is a very small burg which still keeps the original shape and size. There is the nobleman's palace (in the pictures) and the paisants' houses built all around the main square (on which stands also the picoresque house in the pictures). This isolated village in the Roman countryside is a real refuge from the hectic city life for those (only a few) who have the luck of living here. Of course the most lucky people are the descendents of the Marchesi Patrizi family who still inhabitate the Palace beyond which gate opens a wonderful green park.
Book fair in the Campo, 5 July 1998 - Once again the Campo dei Fiori is the centre of the action! This fair "Libri in Campo" is now a classic of Rome's Summer nights. Bars and pubs are open all around the square at night and so in this square is possible to eat, buy books, and listen to good music like a Jazz concert (see next picture).
Listening good Jazz in the Campo, 5 July 1998 - I must admit it: I like the Campo! A jazz band is playing. Outdoor music events (modern and classic), cinema reviews and fairs brighten up Rome's Summer nights. If you need a calendar of events email us (click on the angel on the upper-left corner of the screen).
Night view of the Palazzo Pio Righetti from the Campo, 5st July 1998 - Palazzo Pio Righetti was built in the 17th century over the pre-standing Orsini family Palace. Both Palaces are built on the remains of the Theatre of Pompeo which construction dates back to ancient Rome. Remains of the theatre can be seeing by visiting two restaurants which are built within its remains! These are "da Costanza" (Piazza Paradiso) and "Le Grotte di Pompeo" (Piazza Pollarola) both very good! One more curiousity: the facade of the Palazzo Pio stands on "Piazza del Biscione" (literally: the "big water snake"). The square is indeed named after a water snake which is part of the Orsini family's coat of arms.
A Bridge contest in Piazza Navona, 5 July 1998 - On this night the entire square hosted a big Bridge contest! There were over 100 tables on the square... how many Bridge player would like to play outdoor in Piazza Navona in Rome??? In the picture (behind the players) one can see the Bernini's fountain of the "Four Rivers" (17th Century).
On the way home, 5 July 1998 - Even tired on the way home I could not keep from stopping and take a picture of such a beautiful and romantic glimpse. It's the Vicolo del Bollo (corner Via del Pellegrino). During the day on the nearby Via dei Cappellari one can see many carpenter's shops. In the past instead (as the name of the street witnesses (cappellari) the area was crowded with hat maker's shops (indeed "hat makers"="cappellari").
Looking for somewhere cool: Trevi Fountain, 1st July 1998 - For the last few days the temperature has been of about 37 C (104 F)! In the streets of Rome a hot wind is blowing but lukely fountains are abundant in Rome! The best way to skip the heat is to walk in the shadey alleys of the historical centre or going to one of the public parks and enjoy the shade of a tree. Alternatively one can visit an air conditioned Gallery or Museum! In the picture is Piazza di Trevi with some people is sitting on the edge of the Trevi Fountain while other crowding the square under a hot early afternoon sun.

 The fountain of the cannon ball on the Pincio, 1st July 1998 - This pictoresque fountain stands on the Pincio between the gardens and the Spanish Steps. It stands in front of the Villa Medici (nowdays the seat of the French Accademy in Rome - see entrance door on the second picture). From this place one can enjoy a beautiful view over the city and enjoy a drink or a ice-cream at the nearby bar (with a view!). The French Accademy often houses exhibitions and other events (cinema reviews, music concerts, etc...) Now it houses a modern art exhibit named "La Ville, le Jardin, la Memoire" (Open: 11am-1pm and 4pm-7pm. Closed on Mondays. In August it will only be open in the afternoon. The Exhibition closes on the 30th August 1998.) Independently if you are fond of modern art (installations) or not, this is a great occasion to visit the beautiful gardens of the Villa Medici (built between 1564-75 and bought by Ferdinando dei Medici in 1576) it is the seat of the French Accademy since 1804.

 Not just a shortcut: Via Arco dei Banchi, 29 June 1998 - Walking along the Via del Banco di Santo Spirito (in front of Ponte St Angelo - opposite the Castle) one can find a pictoresque archway. On the arch a modern marble plaque reminds to the passersby of an old inscription that can be seen entering the arh, on the left. This inscription dates from 1276 and records one of the many Tiber floods. This is the oldest record of a Tiber flood that can be found in Rome! The letters are carved in a Medieval style and one can easily read the words "ANNO DOMINI MCCLXXVI (1276)". The line above is the level that the water reached. In this arch passage there is an image of the Madonna lit by a little lamp; painted stars decorate the ceiling (the darker spots in the picture).
Early Summer afternoon in Piazza Farnese, 29 June 1998 - The two fountains (in the background and in the foreground) are the twin fountains that decorate the Piazza Farnese. The two grey basins (detail in the foreground) come from the Baths of Caracalla where were used probably as bathtubs. The small church in the background is the Swedish Church of Santa Brigida, attached to the convent of Brigidine Nuns. There is also possible to rent a room (see accomodations in convents).
A fresh fish stall at the market, 24 June 1998 - Tuesdays and Fridays are the days on which, traditionally, fresh fish can be found at the markets in Rome, and so these are also the days on which the restaurants serve their fresh fish dishes. Visiting a fresh fish stall can be a interesting experience because of the variety of species. For example, in this picture one can see a sword fish. The fish is displayed with greenery and colorful lemons and oranges.

 The seat of the City Council, 22 June 1998 - These two pictures show the Palazzo Senatorio and the Capitoline Hill (on which the palace stands). The Capitoline (one of the Seven Hills of Rome) was the sacred hill on which the ancient temple of Jupiter stood. In the Middle Ages a fortress (the Fortezza dei Corsi) was built on the top of the ancient Tabularium (ancient Rome's State Archive). From here members of powerful families and Popes ruled the city. Public offices were added to the fortress throughout the Middle Ages (with towers that can still be seen today). In the 1500's the architects Della Porta and Rinaldi gave the palace's facade its present look, based on designs by Michelangelo. Michelangelo's project included the stairway leading up to the Capitoline (the Cordonata), the square (with its great perspective) and the palace's facade. Today the Palazzo Senatorio houses the City Council and the Mayor's offices. The decorative statues in the upper picture represent the goddess Minerva (centre) and the Tiber (right) and Nile (left) rivers.

 The Vittoriano, 22 June 1998 - In these two pictures you can see a detail and a front view of the great monument called the Vittoriano which stands in the Piazza Venezia. This building was built in memory of Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of a united Italy. Its construction began in 1885 and was substantially completed in 1911. In 1925 it was also dedicated to all the "Unknown Soldiers... and all their mothers" (as an inscription by the sepulchre says); the remains of an unknown soldier were buried in the crypt in 1921. The Vittoriano, including its "Altare della Patria" (the Altar of the Fatherland), is wonderfully lit at night as you can see from these pictures.
A visit to the restored Church of St. Barbara dei Librari, 22 June 1998 - The Church of St Barbara dei Librari was consecrated in 1306. A leaflet available at the church states, "Santa Barbara dei Librari, located in Largo dei Librari, formerly known as Piazzetta dei Librari, was bestowed in 1601 upon the Guild of Book Sellers, which had been formed the previous year". Closed for many years during this century, this small church was reopened in the 80's. The church was carefully restored over many years and has finally been brought back to its original splendour, a particularly apt environment for prayer and meditation.
A refreshing Grattachecca..., 20 June 1998 - The Grattachecca is a glass of grated ice flavoured with syrups and bits of lemon and coconuts. It's a very traditional summer "drink" and can be bought from a few street kiosks around town. The one in this picture is along the Lungotevere degli Alberteschi, next to the Ponte Cestio. Another "historical" one is along the Via Flaminia (near Piazzale Flaminio) on your way to the Villa Giulia (site of the Etruscan Museum).
School group in Piazza Mattei, 20 June 1998 - The Fountain of the Turtles (seen on the edge of the upper basin of the fountain) was designed by Giacomo della Porta and erected in 1581-84. The Turtles (these are replicas) were added during a restoration by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in 1658. In the nearby Via dei Falegnami you can find a small trattoria (open only for lunch) called "da Benito". There a meal costs only about 10.000-15.000 lire per person, but it gets very crowded, so you should go there early (noon). By taking Via della Reginella or Via di Sant'Ambrogio from Piazza Mattei one can get to the area of the old Jewish ghetto. The Fountain of the Turtles is a popular subject among American architecture professors for their sketching classes.
Watermelons, 18 June 1998 - Once more the Campo dei Fiori is one of the centres of outdoor night life in Rome! (the others are the areas of Trastevere and Testaccio). Here four watermelons are kept cool under the fresh running water of a typical Roman drinking fountain - to be sold later for 1.500 lire per slice (about $1 US). In Rome the watermelon is also celebrated with a feast, on 24th June - indeed curiously associated with St. Bartholomew!! See the article in the archive of the Newspaper. As you can see the square is paved with cobblestones - called Sanpietrini (literally "small Saint Peters"!) perhaps because they were used largely in the 1500's to pave the great St. Peter's Square. These are still used to pave most of the historical centre's squares and streets. The "sanpietrino" is a small version of the big stones (of basalt) used by the ancient Romans to pave their roads.
Night in Campo dei Fiori, 18 June 1998 - A typical night in the Campo. A crowd of people stand in front of the two most popular bars: the "Vineria" (lit. wine shop) and the "Taverna del Campo" (lit. the Inn of the Campo). Notice in the picture the colors of the buildings and the two white Vespa scooters below (the popular scooter that appears in the movie "Roman Holiday"). In the background is the statue of Giordano Bruno (see the older pictures below) who once again seems to participate in the different moments of life in this lively square.
Morning at the Campo dei Fiori, 18 June 1998 - The dark-green bronze statue of the philosopher Giordano Bruno seems to be tolerating, but also enjoying, the colorful market that animates the square in the morning (and the pigeon up on his head!). The small blue van in the picture is used to carry the goods. It is called Ape and is very popular for small business.
Nun shopping at the Campo, 18 June 1998 - This cute nun is shopping for fruit & vegetables from a colorful stall at the Campo dei Fiori. Indeed there are many religious houses in the historical centre of Rome and it's very common to meet with nuns, priests, and sometimes with cardinals too. One house-hostel run by Swedish nuns is located just around the corner from the Campo, the Casa Santa Brigida run by the Suore Brigidine. There one can stay as in a pensione. For more information check the Convent page. In this picture notice also the green and red peppers, the eggplant and the red watermelon!
Another beautiful sunset on Castel St. Angelo, 18 June 1998.
Espresso Coffee, 17 June 1998 - This is what you'll get when ordering an espresso in Rome! Indeed the espresso is served in these small cups and is very concentrated coffee. To have it slightly more watery ask for "Caffe' lungo"; to get a regular American coffee ask for "Caffe' Americano". The Cappuccino, instead, is a coffee with hot creamy milk and it is served in larger cups (as you probably know).
On the Pincio Gardens, 17 June 1998 - The Pincio gardens are probably the most beautiful of Rome because of its fountains, the greenery and flowers, and because of a spectacular panorama over the City. These gardens (overlooking the Piazza del Popolo) used to be the place for Sunday morning walks back in the beginning of this century. However, today it still keeps the very same charm and often in the Spring is animated by morning concerts. The bust in the picture is one of many which decorate the shady walks. These are portraits of people who have been important in the history of Italy.
Walking on Via Veneto, 17 June 1998 - Via Veneto, made famous by Federico Fellini with his movie "La Dolce Vita" is still a beautiful boulevard with coffee shops, restaurants, clubs, beautiful hotels and shops. It is definitely a pleasant walk which connects the Villa Borghese Gardens with the historical centre, ending in the vicinity of Trevi Fountain.

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