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ONE VIEW, ONE ALLEY...
written by Sergio Caggìa for © Nerone the Insider's Guide to Rome

This beautiful watercolour was painted in 1901 by the
Roman painter Ettore Roesler Franz. The artist, painter as well as
photographer, succeeded the committed task of capturing in his
works images of Rome before big changes (decided for its new role
of the Capital City of Italy) canceled a lot of its medieval and
renaissance urban structures and charms.

This particular watercolour belongs to a private collection and,
together with many others, was displayed last year in a successful
exibition housed in the Sala Margana. That was a moment of great
emotion for all of those who love both the works of E. R. Franz and
Rome. Even if most of his productions (in part private and in part
kept in the Museo di Roma, which is now closed for restorations)
can't be seen, some watercolours can be found in the permanent
exhibition housed in the Museo del Folklore e Poeti Romaneschi on
Piazza Sant'Egidio in Trastevere. There are kept not only Franz's
works but a number of painings that depict, with various styles,
18th - 19th century Roman feasts and tradition. A visit to this
little but never the less intriguing museum is an excellent idea!
A great view of Saint Peter's Dome can be also enjoyed from the
Umberto I bridge that from Via Zanardelli gets to the Palazzo di
Giustizia. Try to be there at sunset or night. Even though the
traffic is always awful there, the view is spectacular!

THE ALLEY

The southern part of Trastevere still jealously keeps its medieval
appearance more than its neighbour at the feet of the Gianicolo.
A few nights ago I was walking along Via dei Genovesi and once I
arrived at the end of Via Jandolo my sight suddenly encountered a
minuscule and delightful belltower locked behind a gate. It
belongs to the small church of Santa Maria in Cappella to which is
attached the hospital of the chronically sick. An engraved stone
inside says that the church was consacrated in 1090. The current
restoration works follow those made by Andrea Busiri Vici at the
end of last century (facade and side naves). The bell tower was
built in the 12th century.

Take now the cosy Via di Santa Maria in Cappella, at the end of
which you'll get to the beautiful Piazza dei Mercanti overlooking
medieval palaces and welcoming restaurants. Absolutely romantic at
night!