YE OLDEE CURIOUSITY SHOPPES
written by Sergio Caggìa with Paul Gwynne for © Nerone the Insider's Guide to Rome

 

It's fun to stroll around looking for Christmas presents and cards! It's a cheerful way to spend an afternoon with a friend, and you can stop in a snug tea-room for a chat and a cappuccino! We thought it would be a good idea to make a list of some special shops which sell unusual and original items. Whilst shopping around the centre, take the opportunity to look at some old shops dating from the end of the 19th century and, in the case of some chemist shops, even earlier. Let's start with the old chemist's, Farmacia Peretti, in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere 7. As you walk in, notice the glass door with its brass handle, and once inside, the 19th century furnishings, the fine windows and the wrought iron chandelier. The bust of Mr. Peretti still stands there and his personality can still be felt in the shop. Mr. Peretti taught chemistry and pharmacy at the University of Rome and in 1830, Pope Pius VIII awarded him a medal for his studies. The story is rather amusing considering that Mr. Peretti was an outspoken critic of papal governement and, so the story goes, taught his parrot to rant against any priests that happened to be passing by. The Farmacia Pesci, on Piazza Fontana di Trevi 89, is the oldest in Rome, dating from the mid-16th century! There are many antiques inside, including a big bronze mortar bearing the date 1552. On the counter there are two porphry vases. Its furnishing dates from the 18th century and boxes of herbs and ceramic vases are on display. The Reale on Via del Gambero 13 opened in 1672 and its interior dates from the 19th century. Its famous owner, Mr Savignoni, was a firm papal supporter, unlike Mr. Peretti! When the Bersaglieri entered Rome through Porta Pia he protested by closing his shop for three days! In the ancient herbalist's on Via di Torre Argentina 15, you can find an etching from 1783 depicting the herbalist's as it was then. It looks like a museum inside and is certainly worth a visit, as is the Ferramenta Borra (ironmonger's) which dates from 1911 and is on the same street at number 78. It has a frescoed ceiling and countless drawers and boxes. On Via di Campo Marzio, look out for two shop signs: the "Vittorio Bargagli 1855" which belonged to a wine and oil shop, and then near Piazza del Parlamento, "A' Moda" the oldest haberdashery in Rome (1860). This place was once a stable, and there is still a ring to tie the horses behind one of the windows! The hat shop of the Fratelli Vigano (1873) is located on Via Marco Minghetti 7-8. It has a collection of hats worn by famous people, such as the Roman poet Trilussa, Mussolini and others. Photographs testifying to its history. Then there is the Macelleria Feroci (the butcher's), which dates from the beginning of the century, on Via della Maddalena, 29. Notice the old gas-lamp over the door and the scales dating from 1901 in the window. Other old shops worth visiting are: Casalinghi de Sanctis, (for household articles) Piazza Navona 84 (1890); Profumeria Materozzoli, (perfume shop) Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 5 (end of the 19th century); Cereria Pisoni (the candle maker's), Corso Vittorio E. II 127 (1806) which is the oldest shop of its kind in Rome and produced the first coloured candles in 1920; and Armando Perera, selling prints and etchings, on Via del Babuino, 110. (Information from: "I Negozi d'Epoca a Roma" - Stelio Martini - Tascabili Economici Newton.)   LIST OF SHOPS:  CASTRONI - Via Cola di Rienzo 196 and Via Flaminia 28 (Food)  CITTA' DEL SOLE - Via della Scrofa, 65 (Toys, magic cards) IO SONO UN AUTARCHICO - Via del Boschetto, 92 (Odds and ends, ornaments, crockery: many unusual and original items)  LA CANTINA DEI GOLOSI - Via E. L. Visconti, 51 (Specialities from all over Italy: liqueurs, sauces, olive paste, dried fruit, cakes, etc.)  LA PORCELLANA 55 - Via dei Coronari 55/A (Ceramics, glass, tableware)  TRASPARENZA - Via S. Eustachio, 12 (Glassware)  FIOR FIORE -V. della Croce 17 and F.LLI FABI - Via della Croce, 27 (sweetmeats and boxes)  STATIONNARY - Via della Stelletta 27  PAPYRUS -V. Capo le Case 55/A  WICKER SHOPS - To be found in Via del Teatro Valle and vicinity.  PRINT MARKET - In Piazza Fontanella Borghese.  D.I.Y. EARRINGS & NEKLACES - Via Sora (Corso Vittorio E. II)  HAT SHOP - Via Minghetti (by the Quirino Theatre) SORCERERS' SHOP!! - Via in Aquiro (near Piazza Capranica)