MARKETS

written by Sergio Caggìa with Paul Gwynne for © Nerone the Insider's Guide to Rome

 

It can be very amusing to have a walk and do some shopping in one of the many Roman Markets! Some of those is very big, like the one at P.zza Vittorio or the one at Porta Portese, others are small, discreet, situated in little square in the heart of the centre of the city there where a few alleys converge. In both cases you'll find yourself in the real Roman colours, smell, noise and Life. Just a recomandation: take care of your wallet and at Porta Portese stay away if you see a group of people palying the game of the three cards!!    1.PORTA PORTESE market is situated on Via Portuense (along the street) which is closed for the cars on Sunday morning, when the market is there. It's a good idea to get there by walk coming from P.zza Sonnino (Trastevere) as it could be the occasion to have a walk among houses from the Middle Age there in this part of Trastevere where those still survive. From P.zza Sonnino take Via della Lungaretta Via dell'Arco dei Tolomei (3rd right) Via dei Salumi (1st left) Vicolo dell'Atleta (1st right), you'll find here on your right hand side the remains of the Ancient Synagogue Via dei Genovesi (1st left) Via S.Cecilia (1st right) at P.zza S.Cecilia have a look of the Church of S. Cecilia; notice an ancient CANTARO', a cup used for libations, which is locatsd in the middle of the fountain Via di S.Michele1 (straight) P.ta Portese. 1.    2.PIAZZA VITTORIO. Here every morning touseands of people go for the shopping. It's very big, a portrait of humanity.    3.VILLAGGIO OLIMPICO. There is a little market every friday morning. You can see get there by taking the 225 tram from P.le Flaminio. Get off at the Palazzetto dello Sport or at the following stop as there's not a stop in corresponding of the market. This is the canse to see the Villaggio Olimpico. This area was built in occasion of the Olimpic Games of 1960, is a Village in fact indipendent, in a way, with its own life. The style of the buildigs is interesting and the whole project does respect the human need of green. I think it's worth seeing it.    4. PIAZZA FONTANELLA BORGHESE If you like to buy prints, old books and curious objects there's a small but interesting market located in PIAZZA FONTANELLA BORGHESE (Via del Corso).    5.CAMPO DE' FIORI. This is one of my favourite! Go there early in the morning, it's very caracteristic. Here seems to be back to the past, especially in the winter when some lighted fire sometime makes the air smoky and in November you may find some caldarroste or rosted Chestnuts! All around here there's a lot to see. I suggest you to go for lunch to the 'Zucca Magica' (see ON EATING) after visiting the market, as you'll find there a warm vegatable soup waiting for you which is great in the winter. If you like you can see the Galleria Colonna -P.zza Capodiferro- before lunch. The Area Sacra di L.go Argentina, Via Giulia, the Pantheon and all the sites around there will be the frame for your digestive walk..    6.PONTE MILVIO market. There where the Tiber river lays down like marking from west to est the northen border nf Rome, there the Via Flaminia were crossing it with the bridge which many times in the history of Rome was senary and protagonist of the human tragedy and wonder. Ponte Milvio. Eeven if its location is about two kilometres far from Porta del Popolo and so out of Rome, it has always been consider one of the bridges of the City. Stonebuilt by M.Emilio Scauro in 109 b.C. we know from a script of Livio that there was in this site a wooden bridge already in the 207 b.C. . Being a drawbridge, Ponte Milvio had the function of interrupt the road of access to the City to all the people and invaders coming from North and Est. Another function was the one of welcome kings and popes coming in Rome. In the 19th century the drawbridges were substituite by two arches by the Valadier. The Tower, with a funtion of observing point, which was built in wood in the Middle Ages, was rebuilt in bricks at the middle of the 15th century. War strategies and floods destroied the bridge in part many times. Under the arch, created by Valadier and recalling the Tryumph Arches of the Ancient Rome, you can find an iscription: 'In 1849 the Garibaldini desrtoied part of the arch and of the pavement to dalay the entrance to Rome of the French troops. Just a few words about the statues. From 1825 to 1956 there were two statues on the northen estremity of the bridge representing Giovanni Battista baptizing Jesus. Those were remuved and located inside the Museo di Roma now unfortunately closed for restaurations. Today you can see two different ones on the southern extremity: Mother Mary (Piggiani 1840) and S.Giovanni Nepumoceno (Cornacchini 1731), the protector for the dangers of the drowning. But you were aspecting me to tell you something about the Market! ... Ponte Milvio market itsn't less fashinating than the history of the Bridge. I love it maybe because I live near here, and I think it is another wonderful part of the Roman Life.