FILIPPO NERI, THE PROPHET OF JOYFULNESS...
written by Sergio Caggìa with Paul Gwynne for © Nerone the Insider's Guide to Rome

 

Vanità di vanità,  ogni cosa e vanità;  tutto il mondo e cio che ha,  ogni cosa è vanità.   Vanity, vanity, all is vanity...    Villa Celimontana is a beautiful and peaceful park on the Monte Celio, surrounded by the churches of St Stefano Rotondo, Santa Maria in Domnica (you ought to see the wonderful ceiling and the mosaics in the presbitery- both recently restored), the churches of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, San Gregorio Magno and SS. Nereo and Achilleo. A circuit of churches which could make a good idea for an itinerary through one of the most pictoresque parts of Rome. And don't forget the Antiquarium Comunale! The wonderful views across to the Colosseum (from the top of the Via Claudia) and to the Palatine Hill as you walk down the Clivio di Scauro are breathtaking. A thirteenth-century door at Via della Navicella, no. 4 is also worth noting. Over the door can be seen a mosaic where Jesus stands between two slaves, one black, one white.  The travertine arch to the right is called the Arch of Dolabella, perhaps a reconstruction of the original Celimontana gate through the ancient Servian walls and later re-used in Nero's Acqueduct. I find the walk down the clivio under the flying butresses that span this road from the church to an ancient Roman house paticularly lovely. But this site is especially held dear by Romans this month as this year it is the four hundredth anniversary of the death of a very special person: Filippo Neri (1515-1595; canonized in 1622).    Filippo Neri introduced a new way of devotion by organising joyful processions around the seven ancient pilgrimage churches of Rome. These itineraries were real parties, which included dancing, singing and a picnic as well as moments of prayer and silent devotion. His cheerful philosophy contrasted with the austere ways of devotion of some of his fellow reformers. He proposed a way to live religion which was acceptable to many of his contemporaries! His pilgrimage would start from the church of S. Girolamo della Carita on Via Monserrato where his congregation, known as the oratory of Filippo Neri used to meet. The itinerary organised after 1559 passed on the way the main churches of Rome (St Peter's, St Paul's, St Sebastian, St John in Lateran, St Croce in Gerusalemme, St Lorenzo and St Maria Maggiore) as well as many smaller churches. On one occasion the crowd of the faithfull numbered an incredible six-thousend people! The place for the picnic was the park I mentioned at the beginning of the article: Villa Celimontana.    A Filippo Neri itinerary would begin at the original place of his congregation: St Girolamo della Carita. It should also include the church where the Filippini (Filippo Neri's own name for his congregation of Oratorians) moved to: the Chiesa Nuova (also known as St Maria in Vallicella) which was built by Filippo himself in place of a smaller church on the original site -that's how the church became known as 'Nuova' (new). A splendid fresco painted by Pietro da Cortona across the nave, illuminated by a new light system, depicts a miracle that occurred while the saint was hard at work building the church. In the sacristy there is a marvellous over life-size statue of the saint by Bernini's great rival, the sculptor Alessandro Algardi. On his feast day, 26 May, there's a special opportunity to see his private rooms, various relics and a painting of the saint at prayer jealously guarded by the Oratorians (there is also a copy in mosaic in the church). If you have time I would also recommend the church of Saints Nereus and Achilleus which is also run by his followers. Here there is another charming fresco portrait of the Saint.