NERONE-The Insider Guide: EATING AT EASTER

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Times have changed since the fast of Lent was strictly observed by the Roman subjects of the pope-king. Once upon a time to break the Lenten fast would have been considered a criminal offence. After the long fast from Ash Wednesday the Romans could not wait for give vent to their appetite! On Maundy Thursday and Good Friday the shops would begin to display mouth-watering delicacies of all sort, a real treat but for the eyes only, for although allowed to purchase these delicious things it still wasn't permitted to eat them! For this reason it happens that Sunday morning, Easter day itself, breakfast was a feast, based on all the forbidden foods, bacon, salami, hams, cheeses and hard-boiled eggs.

This traditional Easter Sunday breakfast is still preserved (substituting, for one day at least, the traditional cappuccino and croissant although the Lenten fast may not have been observed) all supplemented by a cheese bread, a cake in the form of a dove, La Colomba, and, of course, the traditional chocolate eggs. Artichokes, together with a soup called stracciatella, roast lamb and a dessert called Zuppa Inglese belong to the traditional Roman Easter lunch. You can ask in the Trattorie for the stracciatella, but you must certainly try artichokes prepared in he two different ways that they cooked in Rome: Carciofi alla Romana and Carciofi alla Giudia. The first are filled with garlic and parsely, salt and pepper, and then steamed in water and white wine; the second are fryed and so thex became crunchy. Incredibly delicious. It's absolutely worth trying them!